Travel. Lifestyle. Culture. Things.
Also I really want to hit up the New Nordic Cinema. For only nine buckaroos you can see a totally hip film from Finland, Iceland or Denmark in the winter series, showing every Wednesday and Saturday. Rad, right?
Here are the trailers to the next ones that are showing in Feb:
Swedish compilation CD from Scandanavia House in New York where my roommate works… Pop up? Genius! These guys know what it takes.
Two typefaces from Jessica Hische that I can’t stop obsessing over. In my train of thought this is what’s next: the scene from Eternal Sunshine of the Spotless Mind when she talks about hair dye names and who gets to name them — that someone’s job is just to name these crazy colors of hair dye. That seems to me like the same incredible coolness it is that someone gets to create type like this for their profession. Watch it here from about minute 1:10 (bad quality).
Anyone up for a plane ride to Australia next weekend for the Sustainable Living Festival 2010? Not that that would at all support a sustainable lifestyle, per say. It’d probably be boring anyway… (swift disdainful kick to the air in front of me)
I read this today. Fascinating. And long.
Kampala, Uganda — where I will be in 25 days!
An adorable card via you are my fave I will copy for my Valentine this year… should I be admitting that? Oh well.
Changing the Face of Fashion
Posted on Thursday 12th November 2009
As I have been researching the fashion industry’s strides in green production, I started to wonder whether it was important to draw a line between eco-friendly options and ethical options. Is one more important than another? Must or should the two go hand and hand?
The question is complicated, and for the most part, depends on the personal stance of the consumer. However when you break down the aspects of sustainability, you find that it doesn’t simply mean being green. Sustainability implies something beyond environmental consciousness because it also includes ethical labor wages, work environment standards, and proper animal treatment. A sustainable project also seeks to create a cycle that can maintain itself by taking overuse and depletion of resources out of the equation.
This mentality shapes socially and ethically accountable fashion into green fashion, which is possibly how it should always be. Because the terms have recently become everyday lingo, some smudging of the print has already occurred. Asking the industry to make the farm-to-store process more transparent would at least educate us all on our role in the vicious cycle of clothing production. What we’ve come to believe as a society of consumers is that the clothing we choose to wear only affects us individually. With a transparent process, though, the hundreds of hands involved in the creation of an item are illuminated rather than forgotten.
MADE-BY is a foundation that combines the concerns of NGO’s, fashion brands, and fashion producers in order to broaden the presence of sustainable fashion in the market. Brands adopt principles that those participating in the foundation have deemed necessary to improve sustainability in production. An extremely market-changing aspect of the strategy can be found in the Track&Trace part of MADE-BY brands. Downloadable from the website is a complete explanation of the ins-and-outs of how they do it, but in short: “Every link in the production chain enters production information into the database and forwards it to the next link.” The database that holds the information for each item is visible by the consumer through a code found on the “blue button” tag placed in the clothing. Tracing clothing through the chain from the grower to the sewer holds producers accountable and keeps consumers informed. Honesty is key in sustainability, and in the furthering of green fashion.
One of the first green fashion initiatives started in the ‘70s with the fair trade movement. Since one of the incentives of fair trade is to educate growers and all parties involved in sustainability, everyone (and everything) benefits. Consumers suddenly have a grasp on details they may have never even considered a part of getting dressed. When things get personal for us, we become interested. Growers gain insight into consumers interested in sustainable businesses like theirs. These basic building blocks make fair trade clothing both green and ethical.
Brewing Justice by author Daniel Jaffee gives a clear examination of the fair trade industry by delving into the true operations of a Mexican cooperative called Michiza. Fair trade cuts out the middlemen involved in conventional trade, making business more direct operations. The book discusses the hardships and difficulties involved with fair trade and does not try to mask the economic complexities involved. But in the end, Jaffee concludes that the integrity and authenticity found in fair trade ought to be strengthened.
Even Wal-Mart has started to notice that the sustainability movement isn’t going to dissipate anytime soon. In fact, when former CEO Lee Scott came on board the goal was to rethink horrendous labor practices. In the process, it was also decided that green business had to be a part of the plan as well.
Higher labor standards have often brought eco standards to the table, as a closer look at either one usually reveals that they are not-so-separate issues. In fact, when Social Accountability International looked at the labor laws in leather production, it upped the growth and processing standards to accommodate both the safety of the workers and the environment.
Companies like Gap and Timberland have also taken green fashion forward by starting to adjust all aspects of production. By joining Organic Exchange and MADE-BY, these industry pioneers have coupled the two seemingly separate movements into one.
Sustainability is working to bring back the appreciation for “face value” production. If we trace our clothes through the hands that made them, we create a virtual map of every person involved in the process. When fashion-forward ideas mean green-ethical ideas, the industry will change. And when we realize the change we could effect by choosing awareness over ignorance, the face of fashion will look entirely different.
Adorit — Fair Trade Eco Fabric Boutique
Posted on Thursday 22nd October 2009
Emma Inns is a 29 year-old entrepreneur and fashion-lover. She lives in Ottawa, Canada and owns Adorit, her own boutique, but that’s only part of her story. Because of her passion for ethically-produced, fair trade fashion, she has created a niche in the Ottawa market where sellers and buyers come together for a great green cause.
How long have you been in fashion? What brought you here?
I was always that kid who wore the craziest outfits to school and was always combining things to create funky one of kind “Emma” outfits as my mum used to call them. I officially opened Adorit in 2007 and that is when I really got into using old pieces, and creating new ones… that are all unique and one of a kind.
What is the background behind Adorit’s beginning?
I had always dreamed of traveling. […]In 2000 I went to India for [one] and half years, then returned to Canada inspired and wanting to go back to Asia as soon as possible to help the people there in some way. I decided studying would be a good idea so I went to school for tourism and got a job right out of school doing Eco tours in China. I worked there for a season and really didn’t feel totally fulfilled and was soon offered a new position in Tibet. I fell in love with Tibet and it’s (sic) people and began thinking about ways to help the people there.
Along with a friend [I] decided to do micro-loans for some of the villages in Tibet and create work opportunity programs to help with poverty in Tibet. After three years of goods being created and sold to different members of travel groups, we saw that things were really taking off and we needed to create a bigger market for our products. I again returned to Canada and set up Tashi Delek, which sold all fair trade Tibetan goods. Fashion was always a huge part of my life and after a summer of selling only Tibetan stuff, I realized I needed to branch out.
That September there was a little shop that came up for rent in Ottawa’s central Byward Market. I decided to do it. I researched and found a bunch of local people who were doing all recycled and reclaimed fashions. There was a shop located where we were before and they had carried a couple lines that fit with the Adorit concept so we continued to carry them. The last part was to get some eco-fabrics in the shop such as organic cottons, hemp and PET, which is recycled water bottles. After two years, Adorit has continued to grow at a steady pace. We are always bringing in new designers and I really feel that Ottawa has a great community for likeminded people who are all very supportive of what I am doing, and therefore made Adorit a success.
How has Adorit made a difference in Ottawa? In the lives of the designers you represent?
Adorit tries to give designers with small collections a chance to get their stuff out there, get a feel for what people like and what they want to see more of. Each of our designers is very unique in their experience … but a bunch of them have gone on to take part in Ottawa Fashion Week as well as getting their collections into other stores locally and around Canada. Some have begun to take their designs on the road and have been very successful doing art and fashion events to get the word out about their fabulous collections.
What is the mission behind the store?
To help improve the lives of people around the world, especially in Tibet, and bring attention to how important recycling and remaking is to helping heal our planet.
Why Tibet?
I was blessed with the experience of living in Tibet and working there for a few years. After a short amount of time there I knew I had to do something to give back to the people of Tibet. There is so much suffering due to the political situation. [… People there] live their lives based on compassion and peace. It would be almost impossible to have the experience I did in Tibet and not fall in love with every aspect of that incredible place.
Who typically comes into the store?
The shop is divided into three sections: (1) Canadian recycled designers, (2) fair trade goods and (3) …vintage .I try to make Adorit an attraction for all ages and all budgets. Each section attracts a different group of clientele, from students to young and older professionals, to anyone who likes to wear things that no one else has. and of course … those who have a mission of only consuming on an ethical basis.
Personally why is environmentalism important to you?
The environment is very important to me and I have always been aware of environmental issues here in Canada as well as globally. In fact, when I was 16 years old, I chained myself to a truck along with others to save the great temperate rainforest Clayoquot Sound of British Columbia, Canada. I feel very strongly about how important action NOW is, to help save our planet. I think that everyday each and every person must do something good for the planet and these little things will all add up and help heal the earth from the state it is in at present.
Are there ways you strive in your day-to-day life to be conscientious?
I bike or walk to work everyday, I recycle and I am vegetarian, to name a few things. I am also in the process of turning Adorit into a carbon neutral business and I am always looking for new ways to decrease my impact on the planet and it’s (sic) people.
Why is fair trade eco-fabric something you are passionate about?
I am passionate about fair trade first of all because I have visited sweatshops and (seen) unfair work practices around the world and am appalled at the conditions in which these people live and work. I have spoken to a few of these slave workers and listened to their horrible stories of mistreatment, working horrendous hours in horrible work environments. These peoples’ suffering is what drives me to do what I am doing and if I can [inspire] one person a day to [become] interested in learning more about fair trade then I feel I am trying to help the change manifest itself.
How can people get their hands on affordable eco-fabric? Is it possible right now?
At Adorit, we carry items that start at $5 and go up to $500. It is very possible no matter your financial situation; Adorit makes it possible to find something you love no matter what your budget.
Why should consumers support eco-fabric and stores like Adorit?
I feel it is extremely important for a couple different reasons — first, [they support] local businesses. This is the best way to keep your local communities thriving, especially in a difficult economy. Whether you can afford to spend $5 or $500, it doesn’t matter. Going out and supporting local is what matters the most. The second is [that] shopping at Adorit [support people in becoming individuals…] At the same time you are buying all ethical goods.
What are your thoughts on sustainable clothing becoming more mainstream?
I think it is great that more big companies are converting to using organic cottons as well as fair trade and sweatshop free practices. The world would be a much better place without sweatshops and slave labor both on a humanitarian level and an environmental level. I really feel that the more big fashion icons that turn to recycling and fair trade the more pressure others will feel to go this route…
Which designer/clothing line would you most like to see go green?
I would love Betsy Johnson to go green. I love her stuff and feel like it would make the green fair trade transition very smoothly.
What is your favorite sustainable/green lifestyle item to you splurge on?
Smashbox cosmetics and vintage lamps.
Do you ever redesign clothing or rework accessories in order to reuse them?
When I get free time, which is quite rare, I remake jewelry, clothes and bags. Sometimes just by changing the buttons on a coat you can recreate it into something incredible. Other times you need to put a bit more love into it and go crazy with remaking something.
Any other green inspirational words you’d like to share?
I learned in Tibet that if you live your life with love and compassion as your guide, all things will fall into place. I truly believe this is the truth.
Lessons from London Fashion Week
Posted on Monday 5th October 2009
London Fashion Week has just ended. Alongside some hot names like Antoni & Alison, Christopher Rauburn and Lola Rose, the Estethica exhibition is showing some of the newest and best designs from long-standing green brands to the latest sustainable designers. For its seventh season, Estethica is illustrating some of the fashion industry’s greatest strides in green fashion.
The British Fashion Council is backing the group of designers and manufacturers working to produce dynamic and competitive fashion lines that leave less of a footprint on our world. One such designer is Mark Liu. His new way of looking at textile design permeates the line Zero Waste, where, by using a specialized cutting technique, 15% of the material in each item is salvaged during production. For this week, Liu’s line Unicorn will present the designer’s organic fabrics and pre-consumer waste designs. These embody what he calls “the key to a brighter future.”
The options only get more fabulously interesting from there. The North Circular is an online company that will launch in October from a group of models who have partnered with a group of knitting grandmothers and friends to create eco knitwear. The concept seems far-fetched, but has caught the attention of the press and other Estethica designers. By using only ethically-produced wool from the sheep sanctuary Izzy Lane’s in North Yorkshire, the team of knitters made sixteen designs in five colors for their The North Circular Collar and Necklace, The Knights and Chunky Diamond lines.
Goodone will also show this week. The completely recycled line was birthed from the desire to rethink common production practices. Since 2005, the two founders, Nin Castle and Phoebe Emerson, have collaborated in sustainable projects such as Noki House of Sustainability, HEBA Women’s Project, and The Hemp Trading Company. An exciting step for the company, Goodone will be featured in a documentary being filmed by Japan’s NHK broadcast network that will showcase the company’s philosophy and designs.
Lastly, the shoes from Elisalex Grunfeld de Castro’s line Nina Dolcetti will make a sustainable statement in London this week. Created from pre-consumer waste materials, the designer has taken the environmentally harmful effects of leather tanning and production into consideration. In order to produce the avant-garde styles without exploitative factory production, Dolcetti has given the manufacturing responsibility to family-run factories in East London. Just because the materials are reused doesn’t mean these shoes aren’t fit for high society. As the website states, the styles “confidently walk the line between decadent pleasures and environmental awareness.”
From reusable materials to ethically-treated animals, these designers and manufacturers are changing the face of the fashion industry—this week is just another great step in the campaign.
